Key West ….. The Conch Republic….closer to Cuba than Miami

Beginning of U S Highway 1

   Day 3 in The Florida Keys began with a 61 mile drive south on U S Highway 1 to historic Key West. Darlene and I stopped for brunch in Pine Key at The Big Rooster. It seems all of South Florida is fascinated with roosters. I will explain more on that in a bit. Darlene got waffles and bacon and I had a Cuban sandwich. The price was good as was the food.

   We left and headed south. We started coming into Key West. The island town was founded in 1513 by Ponce De Leon, and was known as The Conch Republic. Pirates, scoundrels, ship wrecks, voodoo, and lawlessness. The history is old and interesting and hard to distinguish between fact and legend.

   The town of Key West wasn’t settled until 1822. It has since thrived as an important port at the southern tip of the Florida Territory through Statehood. Through the years Key West developed into a haven for famous characters like Ernest Hemingway, Herbert Hoover, Jimmy Buffett, and Mike Leach to name a few. It also became a tourist location famous for casual nightlife, unusual bars on Duval and Front Streets, and a colorful island flare.

   We drove into town and began seeking a parking lot close to things we wanted to see and do. We found it and parked. Immediately we noticed all the roosters everywhere. We had been warned not to run over one and don’t kick one out of your way. Those are both crimes you can be arrested for. They just walk around crowing, pecking at food and doing their business on the sidewalks. Don’t go barefoot! LOL.

Roosters everywhere

   Our first stop was the Hemingway House. Ernest Hemingway is my favorite author and has always been a kind of semi-hero of mine. Although he was a bit of an oddball, one had to admire his lust for life, adventure, a good drink, fishing, and his love of country. His writings were always so real and raw with a knowledge of his having lived what he wrote about. That was because he had. The house itself has been well maintained and kept while trying to balance the way it was when Ernest lived there. We saw the entry hall, the living room, the bookshelves full of books, and the many movie posters. Hollywood made many of his books into movies. The walls of the bedrooms and hallways were covered in pictures and memorabillia with his movie friends; Gary Cooper from A Farewell To Arms and For Whom The Bell Tolls, Ava Gardner and Gregory Peck from Snows Of Kilimanjaro, pictures of him and Humphrey Bogart from To Have And Have Not, as well as some with his drinking buddy, John Huston. We saw the famed “writing room” still with desk and typewriter. If you are a fan of old classic movies or a fan of Hemingway’s writing, then this part of the house was very interesting.

Pictures and Memorabillia
Movie posters
Me in front of one of the many bookcases

  We also saw the gardens that are still well maintained today. It has many shaded areas and flowers. We saw the famous cat house he had built for his many feline pets. The cats there today are said to be ancestors of the cats Hemingway had. We even saw some of the six-toed cats that were so highly publicized.

Notice the six toes

   We went out back of house and saw more interesting folklore and facts. It was rumored that Hemingway spent his last cent on this house. He even put a penny in the concrete on the patio surrounding the swimming pool. You have to look for it, but Darlene did find it. The other story was about his good friend Ava Gardner. She was visiting and staying with Hemingway after her divorce to Frank Sinatra. It was said she could match any man drinking tequila, party all night and still be ready to go the next day. Story goes, Ava went swimming nude in the pool. Hemingway never again allowed the pool to be drained. I have no idea what is fact and what may be fiction, but does it really matter?

Hemingway’s last cent
Swimming pool where Ava Gardner swam nude
Darlene and I leaving The Hemingway House

   During a quick stop in the museum and gift shop, I bought my favorite Hemingway book, To Have And Have Not. The book was made into a movie starring Humphrey Bogart, Walter Brennan, and introducing Lauren Bacall. Bogart’s character was killed in the book but Hollywood didn’t want the star to die. Ernest finally agreed and consulted on the film.

Then we had to move on in order to see some other Key West sites. We walked down Duval Street toward the Southern Most Point Buoy. We stopped in a couple of souvenir shops and one wine bar in order to cool off. Old folks struggle to walk long stretches in the heat. We got refreshed a tad and then continued on our wak down Duval Street. There is very little parking on the street, so you pretty much have to park in a lot and walk. Duval Street is an interesting stroll with so many shops, restaurants, and bars. We made it to the end where you take advantage of the photo op of The Southern Most Point Buoy.

Us at The Southern Most Point Buoy
Where the sidewalk ends-straight ahead is Cuba. Today there was a heavy sulfur smell from all the Sargassum

Just beyond the buoy is the ocean and only 90 miles to Cuba. It is 155 miles north back to Miami.  We walked the other side of Duval Street back to the car. We did buy a couple of souvenirs from a local street vendor. We usually always get a magnet for the fridge and an ornament for the tree as a reminder of all our trips. Darlene always buys a few gifts for friends and a couple things for Christmas gifts. Yes, we are tourists!

   We got back to the car and decided we had walked enough. We drove up the other part of Duval Street looking and taking notes. We passed the Oldest Bar in Key West, The Bull and Whistle Bar. The bottom floor is family friendly that also sells some food until 9. The second story has an outdoor patio you can sip your drink and people watch overlooking Duval Street. The upstairs from there is a clothing optional bar. Somehow putting my naked butt on a barstool that has had other naked butts on it, just doesn’t appeal to me. Not now and not in my younger days either, but to each his own.

Bull and Whistle Bar

   We drove by the cemetery but it was right at closing. I understand it has many gravesites dating back to the 1600’s. Put this on your list if you enjoy things like this. It was getting close to dinner time. A friend of Darlene’s had suggested El Siboney Cuban Restaurant. We found it and they had a parking space in the front! We entered and noticed how good everything smelled with all of the Latin spices wafting in the air. We shared a Beef Empanada that was excellent. Darlene got the Fried Pork with Plantains, Black Beans, and Spanish Rice. I opted for Mojo Pork, a Tamale, and Yuca Roots. The meal was very good. We shared a piece of Key Lime Pie. They need to work on their pie.

Ducal Street
Beef Empanada
My Mojo Pork with Tamale and Yuca Roots covered with Sweet Onions
Darlene’s Fried Pork and Plantains with Black Beans and Spanish Rice

  

   We left the restaurant and had every intention of watching the sunset from Mallory Square, a Key West tradition. There was not a parking spot to be found and the closest lot was over 3/4 mile away. We were walked out in the heat!We settled for driving by. We stopped on the way out of town and got a Sunset picture over the Gulf of America.

Sunset

   We had a great day in Key West. Check back here at this blog in a day or two. Day 4 was a chill day close to the resort which gave us a break from the hectic previous travel days

  


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